Walbro 255 fuel pump installed.

Yesterday I finished getting my Walbro 255 fuel pump installed. It was a pain to do because I think the previous owner but some lock tight or something in the part where the hose goes from the fuel hat.

Luckily I had a spare fuel hat, I was expecting this wouldn’t be as easy as it looked and everything loves to break on this thing when I take it apart. The car is idling higher after the install, so I will have to adjust the idle. I’m planning to hotwire the fuel pump soon since I have the kit for it. I am getting my 680cc injectors flow balanced this week then I’ll be installing those next, hopefully along with an AEM FPR if I can get one by then.

Glass headlights

I bought a set of glass headlights for a good price since they from a yellow 94 3000GT. My intention is to paint the insert black and put in some Morimoto halos. I have the halos already, now I just have to take them apart and get to working on it. I may have them in next weekend. I really like the white lexans that I have, but the black would look really nice with my carbon fiber hood I think.

FIAV Bypass Installed

I ordered an FIAV Bypass kit from Ninja Performance and installed it today. Definitely a good upgrade for someone who is constantly taking off their plenum like me (learning how to tune ends up resulting in needing new spark plugs lol.)

If anyone else buys this, I highly recommend buying it the way I did. I got the FIAV gasket and new screws with mine. You’re going to want new screws, I nearly destroyed the screws in mine trying to take them out, suckers were in there very tight.

I also removed my larger Krank Vent to see if that will help how the car is running. I’ll find out in the coming days. I reset my ECU and put all my MAFT dials back to zero (except AUX 8, BASE 2 as instructions said to do.) I already had to put the IDLE to 4 on the MAFT just to make it stay running and to make the idle stop bouncing, but it seems to idle smooth at about 900 RPMS now. I would say this is mostly thanks to that FIAV bypass because mine must have been bad, it had been creating a leak causing my idle issues for quite some time now.

Special thanks goes out to Ninja Performance once again for making such awesome products at affordable prices.

Thanks Ninja Performance

Just wanted to give a special thanks to Chris Hill and Ninja Performance. I’ve been buying a good bit of parts from them over the past couple years and their customer service is simply unrivaled. I don’t think anyone knows these cars as well as Chris and I’m very thankful that he has been such a help providing great parts at good prices.

If anyone needs parts, they’re always my first stop.

Visit Ninja Performance site here.

04/24/2016 Update

After a whole can of PB blaster to try to separate the fuel line on top of my fuel hat to try to swap the fuel pump – I was unsuccessful. That line is fused together with rust, so I am looking for a replacement fuel hat since I’m going to have to break the line to get it off..

On another note, I’m getting a little better at tuning I suppose lol. Car is running a lot better now, the ability to monitor knock and all of the other things from the LCDBC has been a HUGE help.

I learned that my TPS is sitting on 21% at idle from my LCDBC as well, which is a part of the problems I’ve been having. Planning to adjust that very soon, its just a pain to get to the bottom bolt of the TPS because of my hard pipes. Takes a little bit of work to get that section off.

I’m loving the LCDBC more every day, definitely the best upgrade I’ve purchased for my car. Highly recommend it to anyone with these cars, a must have upgrade.

Aside from that, I picked up 2G headlight buckets over the weekend as well as some more black interior pieces. Now I just need the front bumper and head lights/corner lights to finish up my front end conversion! I know several people weren’t thrilled about the idea of me changing a pearl white VR4 into a 2G/3G but they’re not paying for the car lol. The plan is either a 98 front bumper or a 99 front bumper, 2G head lights and I’m working on changing my 2G hood to an evil eye hood. I’ve seen others like this and its just really appealing in my opinion. Whole car will be painted with the Evo’s Wicked White once I have time to be away from the car after these parts are all ready to put on.

I’m thinking I’m going to sit my 15Gs aside for when I put my 4bolt block in after I finish building it. I don’t think its worth risking it on my 2 bolt block with its cast crank to put them on just yet.

Today, I also went out on my lunch at work and set the TPS a lot better. I had to mess with the SAS screw because someone else had messed with it in the past, ended up being a big part of my problem. I am not so sure that I even have it adjusted correctly yet. I am going to have to check the manual later and see.

It is idling a lot better, but still does a weird thing when I am driving that it has always done – the RPMs shoot up when I put in my clutch to shift gears, or even if I am just putting it in neutral slowing down. Not sure if that is part of the “no lift to shift” thing in my Chrome settings or what. I’ll try shutting that off when I get home tonight and see if it helps.

04/19/2016 Update

After fighting for a few months with a weird issue that I could only explain as “stuttering” under boost, I fixed my boost leaks and tested hooking it up to a smoker at my parents shop, changed my fuel filter (which needed changed anyway) and kept second guessing my fixes because the issue just wouldn’t go away. I played with my tune with my MAFT a lot to try to get my AFRs right and finally did after fixing the boost leaks too.

So I found my issue and fixed it – first I’ll start by saying the issue was a stupid one and I don’t know why it took me this long to try this… It was the duty cycle on my LCDBC… It was set to 20, I set it up to 40 while driving down the highway yesterday and the car INSTANTLY woke up and got in to steady boost with no problems finally! Now you would think I should have known to check this between selling my AEM tru boost and installing the LCDBC, but for some reason my brain didn’t make the connection that I did that until yesterday. I didn’t drive the car for about 2 weeks or so between swapping them because I was doing several things to the car at the same time – I figured it got messed up doing something else lol. Just to be clear – this is my fault for not changing the settings, it is nothing bad with the LCDBC. The LCDBC is still one of the best purchases I ever made for my car.

Pretty happy that the car is finally running properly now.

I have 15G turbos on the way finally! Working on getting some bigger injectors in the next couple of weeks. I got a Walbro 255 and hotwire kit from Ninja last week that I plan on installing when I install the injectors.

I decided to hold off on going E85, I plan to do it still but I think I am going to upgrade down the road a little ways when I can afford it. For now, I’m still in the process of building my 4 bolt block with forged internals and that will be the last big purchase for awhile.

Progress feels good and it feels really good getting in the car and driving it without saying “WHY IS IT DOING THAT?!” lol.

More progress today also!

On my lunch at work, I had nothing to do so I rigged up an OBD1 to OBD2 adapter to see if I could get my LCDBC communicating with my ECU and guess what!! I GOT IT! The adapter that came with my Chrome ECU apparently wasn’t able to make a good connection with the LCDBC. Now I can finally take full advantage of this awesome product!

Really excited that things are starting to fall in place finally.

04/17/2016 Update

Installed a new fuel filter yesterday. I would have installed my new Walbro 255 also but I ran out of time thanks to some idiots who decided to put superglue in the lock for my garage… I’m just glad the car stays in the garage so these idiot people don’t have a chance to mess with the car itself..